Textile sample

ca. 1870-1872 (made)


Width: 30.25 in with selvedges, Length: 16.25 in, Length: 2.25 in band of plain yellow satin with inscription

694-1872 T&F

Textile sample, Brocade in gold and silver with yellow satin band at top, maker Sapognikoff, Moscow, ca. 1870-1872

Brocade in gold and silver with yellow satin band at top. The band has an inscription woven in with the name of the company and the arms of Russia: a double headed eagle and a single headed eagle. The pattern comprises Greek crosses in laticework compartments.

The brothers Alexander and Vladimir Sapognikoff or Sapozhnikovy were descendents of an ancient Russian merchant dynasty which founded a textile firm in 1836 in Moscow. Gold and silver textiles produced there won grand-prix and gold medals several times at international and World exhibitions in the 19th and the beginning of the 20th centuries. In 1852 Sapognikoff became official suppliers of the Russian Imperial court, their textiles being used for upholstery, window curtains and draperies in Imperial palaces and in the mansions of the Russian aristocracy. They also supplied the army with flags and standards, the Russian clergy with fabric for vestments, and the court with ceremonial garments. Sapognikoff textiles were well known for elaborate patterns, vibrant colours and superior quality. Given its Greek cross pattern, this piece was probably woven for use in an ecclesiastical vestment, perhaps as a phelonion, worn by a priest of the Eastern Christian tradition over his other vestments. The phelonion is the same as the chasuble of Western Christianity.

Bought for £1.00 in 1872. One of 19 Russian textiles acquired at the same time. All in similar idiom, and all probably from same firm.

Location: In Storage

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