Textile sample

ca. 1872 (made)

Saposnikoff, A & V

Width: 22.25 in with selvedge, Length: 43 in, Length: 10.5 in repeat, Width: 21.5 in without selvedge

681-1872 T&F

Brocade of gold and silver, ca. 1870-1872, Russian; Moscow, A & V Sapoznikov/Saposnikoff/Sapognikoff, gold and silver, cross in lattice work of quatrefoils; ecclesiastical

Gold and silver brocade sample with yellow satin band at the top. The pattern is of a Greek cross surrounded by a quatrefoil. It is a point repeat, with three crosses across its width. There are two different qualities of gold thread and the ground is silver. The warp is yellow. The name of the firm, flanked by a coat of arms of the two-headed Russian eagle and the single-headed eagle, woven into the band. In ink, there is the inscription on the band: N 13000 1912 (in Latin alphabet); in pencil a surname, probably Bubnov (which is a merchant rather than a noble name in Russian). On the back is a stamp of the eagles.

The brothers Alexander and Vladimir Sapognikoff or Sapozhnikovy were descendents of an ancient Russian merchant dynasty which founded a textile firm in 1836 in Moscow. Gold and silver textiles produced there won grand-prix and gold medals several times at international and World exhibitions in the 19th and the beginning of the 20th centuries. In 1852 Sapognikoff became official suppliers of the Russian Imperial court, their textiles being used for upholstery, window curtains and draperies in Imperial palaces and in the mansions of the Russian aristocracy. They also supplied the army with flags and standards, the Russian clergy with fabric for vestments, and the court with ceremonial garments. Sapognikoff textiles were well known for elaborate patterns, vibrant colours and superior quality. Given its Greek cross pattern, this piece was probably woven for use in an ecclesiastical vestment, perhaps as a phelonion, worn by a priest of the Eastern Christian tradition over his other vestments. The phelonion is the same as the chasuble of Western Christianity.

Acquired in 1872 for £2 5s. Part of a batch of 19 Russian ecclesastical pieces, one of which was donated by the firm.

Location: In Storage

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